Through orange groves in Sierra Nevada
The Spanish south coast attracts both professional cyclists and winter-weary amateurs with their fine roads. At the foot of the Sierra Nevada and with the Mediterranean Sea within easy reach, we set out cycling in hilly terrain through olive and orange groves. With a few stops for a cortado.
From Malaga we take the motorway one hour east before we turn north into a valley where the sun shines on the yellow coloured rock massif as we drive into the small community Vélez de Benaudalla. The main street runs in north-south direction with the church in the center and with white stone houses close up on both sides of the road. The fortress at the height reminds visitors of the city’s Arabic roots. Here we find some small grocery stores, a bakery, a couple of cafes and restaurants.
White legs
Together with a group of cyclists from Stockholm Cycle club, who also have arrived with an early flight, we take a short ride in the afternoon. Cormac Keeny guides us on a short trip to a village on the other side of the valley, with a hill long enough for the pulse to go up. A premonition of what to expect during the week. With white legs that have not seen the sun since the previous season, we ride up the hill in the afternoon sun. It is a wonderful feeling to be able to cycle in short bibs again, after a long winter with studded tires, thick clothes and frozen fingers.
Aunt’s farmhouse
Cormac came to Sierra Nevada for the first time in the winter of 2010. It was a nice escape from the dark and cold season in Olso, where he was living. His aunt owned an old farmhouse where he could stay during his training weeks. Cormac became very fond of the landscape, the climate and the opportunities for good cycling in the area. After the first winter, he began to invite friends from Norway and Ireland. The rumor of the amazing cycling spread and the number of visitors grew. In 2013, Cormac started Cycle Sierra Nevada and now groups are coming from many different nations. Many of the guests are returning every season. But when it gets too hot during the summer months, Cormac happily returns to Oslo.
Strong cyclists from Stockholm Cycling Club
The next morning we gather outside the new premises that Cormac and his team are preparing. Two guys from New York and a Dutchman have also joined the group. While we are sipping our morning coffee, the guides go through today’s route. There will be two groups. I decide to go with the group that will do the longer ride. The guides lead us north on the quiet street this early Sunday morning. After a short descent, the climb begins. We cycle past the dry pond that flows out of Rio Guadalfeo. The pace is so high that I really have to fight to keep up with the group. The cyclists from Stockholm Cycle club prove to be really strong, lead by the Swedish champion in H30 (men over 30), Leo Kaftanski. I curse myself for having chosen the wrong group when my heart rate reached the red zone already in the first climb.
Snow-covered peaks and nice roads
Our group is guided by Szymon Kowtowski and Christian Ekdahl. Szymon is a former racing cyclist from Poland who has been here since 2015 and knows the area well, while the Swede Christian has a fondness for randonneuring and got to know Cormac in Oslo. The roads are in the best condition, often it looks like the asphalt is completely new. The traffic is moderate with very few cars. In the distance we see the snow-covered peaks where the ski season is still going on. The road, cut out of the rock with a wall of limestone on our right side, continues uphill without becoming really steep. The vegetation is diminishing and it becomes increasingly barren the higher we get. Fortunately, the group has now been divided into smaller groups for customized tempo. It was probably not just me who had to struggle hard.
Haza del Lino
Eventually, we reach our goal. Outside the restaurant in Haza del Lino with the same name, the motorcycles that overtook us during the climb has parked. Haza del Lino, which seems to be a popular Sunday excursion, is not much more than the restaurant and a bus stop in a three-way junction from where we can get a glimpse of the sea in the south. At the outdoor terrace where the sun warms, we are having bocadillo, cola and cortado. We will return here twice during the week, but from other directions. After the stop we continue on winding roads down towards the Mediterranean fishing town Castell de Ferro, where a fresh breeze makes small waves that rolls into the beach. The strong guys from Stockholm decide to race and push it hard for a while along the coast. The rest of us try to keep up but are soon losing contact with the group. All but the Dutchman Stephan van Hien who has proved to be very strong and used to the Dutch crosswind. Check out that guy at Strava. Last year he rode 44.000 km!
Trevélez
The following day we ride to Trevélez via the vineyards of Cádiar. It is a long climb that goes in stages. The pace is slower than yesterday and we cycle in one group. With almost 1500 meters above sea level, Trevélez is one of the highest resorts in Spain, not counting the ski stations. It’s the highest altitude we reach this week. After the summer months it is possible to get all the way up to Pico De Veleta which is Europe’s highest paved road. Cormac and his team drive the groups up to Granada by car where you start the long climb up to 3400 meters above sea level.
We are not the only group visiting this village, which is considered to have been inhabited already in the Iron Age. At the square where we fill up water that runs down from the mountain, buses with tourists have also stopped. Trevélez is known for its air-dried ham. The dry and cool climate is considered ideal conditions. In the restaurant where we eat lunch, the hams hang tight in the roof. As usual, dogs with languishing eyes sit around our table in hope for a taste. From Trevélez, a long, winding and absolutely fantastic road await down to the hippie town of Órgiva, which is surrounded by olive groves and where already ripe fruits from orange and lemon trees are hanging.
Peter Sagan
During winter and early spring, Sierra Nevada is a popular location for professional cyclists. Peter Sagan and the Bora Team are some of those who come back here for early training, to get in shape for the spring classics. He and many others stay up in the mountains to get the benefits of the high altitude and where they have access to the modern Centro de Alto Rendimiento training center. However, Peter spends much of his training time down by the coast and is transported up and down, while others prefer to ride in the mountains.
Rest day
Wednesday is a day without guided tours. Most people still choose to take an easier ride. Some role down to Motril for lunch and homemade ice cream in the sun. I take a short ride up to Guájar-Alto with Ian from London, which I share the apartment with, and Marcus from New York. Here we enjoy a cup of coffee in the warm weather. While we are recovering from past days of cycling with all the altitude gained, our Dutch friend Stephan has embarked on his own ride. You know, he who logged 44.000 km last year. When he returns, shortly before dark, he has covered 220 km with a lot of climbing. On the rest day!
The Goat’s Path
It is just after half past nine when we roll south from Vélez de Benaudalla. The cold in the shadow makes me shiver, even though I wear arm warmers and vest. But it will soon get warm. When we have crossed the bridge over Rio Guadalfeo we enter the sun and the climb begins. It is not long before I take off my west. We pass orange and lemon groves where the trees extend their arms towards the road so that we can almost pick the fruit on the go.
At Guájar Faragüit, we make a right turn and it immediately becomes steeper. “Free speed up to the top of the hill”, Szymon shouts. Some take him at his word, stand up from their saddles and give it all. The road winds its way up the mountain where pines partly give us shade. The group quickly splits and we all fight hard on the 8 kilometers long climb. When we finally reach the top, we are out of breath and rest for a while before we continue together.
After a stop for lunch where I once again order bocadillo, cola and cortado, we turn onto road A-4050 and enter a barren, reddish-brown landscape of stone, almost without vegetation. The only traffic is some trucks heading for a gravel pit. Eventually, the landscape changes and we pass through a pine forest before we reach the highest point. We fill our bottles from a running water source and then continue on the road which now winds its way down the mountain in the direction of the coast. Soon we see the sea far below. Once upon a time, they transported fish this way from Almuñuecar down the coast all the way up to Granada where it was sold on the market. A trip that took almost two days on donkeys. It is really an intense experience to follow the narrow and curvy road down towards Almuñuecar by the Mediterranean coast. We only meet a few cars during our way down. But no donkeys and no goats.
Haza del Lino revisited
In the mountains you can count the number of cars on your fingers, while roads along the coast have a bit more traffic. We see a few other groups of cyclists, but compared to Mallorca we are almost alone. As I mentioned earlier, we returned two more times to Haza del Lino. One day, after having cycled east along the coast, we climbed up from Albuñol through vineyards and almond trees. The sun shined on us during the climb and the heat almost hammered me. Christian saved me on the last part when he handed over a cold Coke that he had picked up from the restaurant.
And on the last day with guides, we cycled north through Órgiva where they were preparing the street market with stands filled with clothes, shoes, fruit and vegetables. After stopping for lunch in Torvizcón we climbed the 16 km up to Haza del Lino. The initial part was steep, but then the road wound its way on the ridge through pine trees up to the restaurant at the crossroad. Needless to say, we stopped for coffee before descending down to the coast were we cycled westwards. A light breeze made small waves that hit the almost empty beach where a lone fisherman sat in his chair with a fishing rod looking out over the water. In a few months, it will be filled with tourists. We continued cycling through the old fishing community Castell de Ferro with its Arabic castle on the hill, and before reaching Vélez we made a last stop in Motril for lovely homemade ice cream.
One last cortado
Our rides often end with a cold beer or a Coke at a bar in Vélez. On our way back to the apartments, we stop at a super mercado to buy bread, fruit, fresh strawberries, and everything else we need for breakfast. After a long-awaited shower I take a nap before dinner that we all eat together at one of the restaurants. While having a much needed three-course dinner, often ended with cheesecake, we talk about today’s ride and share bike memories from the past. Together with some people from Stockholm who also have a late flight, we take a short morning ride on our last day. It has been an intense week with a lot of miles covered. A perfect start of the season. I finish by cycling up to Guájar-Alto for lunch and one last cortado, where the dogs are dozing in the shadow outside the local bar Carmen.
Facts
Cycling Sierra Nevada
Cycling The Sierra Nevada organizes guided cycling in the Sierra Nevada since 2013 with Vélez de Benaudalla as home base. Guided tours are organized from January to the end of May and from September to early November. They also rent out bikes. All information is available at www.sierranevada.cc.
Getting there
If you are flying, Malaga airport is just over an hour away. Cycling Sierra Nevada will pick you up at the airport.
Food and accommodation
You stay in apartments with kitchen where you make your own breakfast. During rides they stop for an easy lunch. Three-course dinner is served at one of the restaurants Vélez.
What to bring
Bring your own bike or rent one from Cycling Sierra Nevada. It is good to have both a rain jacket and sunscreen. Even though we had sun all week, rain is not uncommon. The mornings are often chilly, so windbreaks, vest and arm warmers are good to pack. In Vélez de Benaudalla there is no store that sells sports drink powder or bars, so it may be good to bring along.
The cycling
The cycling is mainly hilly with several long climbs towards the Sierra Nevada while the coastline is less hilly. The roads are mostly really good and with smooth asphalt. A little more traffic along the coast while there are few cars in the mountains.
Photo Credit: Szymon /Stephan van Hien / Magnus Wiström
Text Author: Magnus Wiström – Fishcube Media