Travel | Riding Magical Trails in Morocco
A thousand and one nights and infinite singletracks – there you go, the reason Morocco is the ultimate destination for my wife and me. Although it has helped that my brother has spent years living and working just outside of the Moroccan capital of Rabat with a lovely house by the seaside. So if my brotherly duty to visit him happens to coincide with a riding holiday then I guess that’s just how it is – and for my fourth obligatory visit, I managed to negotiate a full day of riding.
As Marrakesh marked the final stop of our Morocco trip, I immediately thought of my Facebook friend, Pierre-Alain Renfer, hoping that he’d be game for an introductory tour of the Atlas Mountains. A mountain biker since 1985, Pierre-Alain has been in Marrakech for two decades and his company Marrakech Bike Action organizes guided tours in the nearby Atlas Mountains as well as their new venture of city tours on town bikes.
Located on the Atlantic coast, the old harbor city of Essaouira is a daytrip from Marrakech, but spending a few days there is a wise idea. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old town (Medina) is worth a visit, as is a day of kite surfing. Essaouira is still renowned as the hippy hotspot of Morocco, a reputation that’s stood since Jimi Hendrix spent time there in 1967.
The royal city of Marrakech is the epitome of the Arabian Nights, crammed with tiny, packed alleyways and with the ever-present smell of spices, leather, perfume and, unfortunately, mopeds. The country’s biggest souks are split into districts, each respectively selling their wares, be it copper artefacts, textiles, woolen goods and wooden ornaments.
To watch the sunset, there’s nowhere better than a spot on the roof terrace of the ‘Café de France’ at the famous Place Djemaa el-Fna. While it might appear a touch disappointing during the day, the square comes alive in the evenings with street entertainers, snake charmers and the aromas of the countless food stalls.
Come evening, the Place Djemaa el-Fna transforms into a giant outdoor eating area with thousands of grilling stalls. Alongside brochettes (a sort of kebab), tagines, and harira (a type of soup), expect exotic dishes such as mutton brain and snails.
As agreed, Pierre-Alain picks me up in the early hours from our Riad, the name for a traditional guesthouse in the Medina with authentic charm and western-style comfort. We head south, chatting like old friends thanks to the landscape and our shared interest: cycling. We cover topics like current trends and technologies in the bike industry, as well as mutual friends who’d previously been on Atlas Mountain tours with Pierre-Alain or met him as a location scout for photo shoots.
After around an hour we reached Tahanaout, where we purchased refreshments for our ride. Even here it struck me just how well Pierre-Alain communicates with the locals, the majority of whom are Berbers.
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For less aerobically-inclined clients, Pierre-Alain offers guided e-mtb tours and this was the option that I reluctantly went for. However, by the time the midday sun hit, I was more than satisfied with my now rather clever decision!
More information:
Originally from Switzerland, Pierre-Alain was born in French-speaking Jura. Alongside his mother tongue, he speaks English, German and enough of the local language to communicate with the Berbers, a widespread society in Western Morocco. With his company Marrakech Bike Action, he’s been running guided bike tours in the Atlas Mountains for more than 20 years. Each tour is tailored to the needs, wishes, endurance and skill level of the participants. Given his extensive experience as a guide, Pierre-Alain has the perfect knack of selecting the right level of trails for whichever group he is taking out. The tours usually last 6 days, with 45-60km and 5-6 hours riding on the schedule. This might not sound like much, but given the high temperatures and the fact that 80% of the trails are singletracks, it is a good amount. Participants generally bring their own bikes with them. Luggage is transported, and participants sleep in small guesthouse, such as secluded mountain huts at high altitudes (above 2,000 metres). As Pierre-Alain assures me, there’s always a refreshing cold beer on offer. Despite only riding for two days with Pierre-Alain, I am convinced that his tours are more than worth recommending!
When to travel: all year round with the exception of July and August as it’s too hot.
For more information on his tours and prices, head to marrakechbikeaction.com or marrakech-city-bike-tour.com.
Words & Pictures: Manne Schmitt